Bo Bunny

© 2025 Wild for Crochet – All rights reserved. This pattern and its contents are only for personal use. Do not copy, edit, redistribute or sell this pattern. You are welcome to sell finished products with your own photos, but if you do so, please give pattern credit to Wild for Crochet. Thank you, and enjoy!

Tools and Materials

2.50 mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitch markers
Pins
Polyester soft toy filling
Paintbox Cotton DK yarn, 100% cotton, 50g/1.7oz, 125m/137yds:
- 20g Stormy Grey, 30g Duck Egg Blue, 30g Ballet Pink, 20g Champagne White

Abbreviations (U.S.)

MR: magic ring: make a magic ring with the number of stitches indicated.

yo: yarn over

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

hdc: half double crochet

ch: chain stitch

inc: increase

dec: decrease

st/s: stitch/stitches

rnd: round

sl st: slip stitch

WS: wrong side

RS: right side

sk: skip

FO: fasten off (cut the yarn and pull through the loop on the hook)

cm: centimetres

[ ] x: work instructions within the brackets as many times as indicated by the number following the brackets. For example, [2 sc, inc] x 3 means:

sc, sc, inc, sc, sc, inc, sc, sc, inc.

( ): shows number of stitches at the end of the round.

Note for U.K. Abbreviations: U.S. single crochet is known as a double crochet in U.K. terms. Tension is also known as gauge.

Special Stitches

Invisible Decrease St

Insert your needle through the FLO of the next 2 stitches, yo and pull through, then yo and pull through both loops on the hook.

Backstitch

Bring your needle up one stitch ahead of where you want your embroidery to begin and then down into the chosen starting point. Bring your needle back up in the direction you want the backstitch to go and down into the previous stitch. Continue coming up one space ahead and back down into the hole of the previous stitch.

Final Size

Approximately 25 cm/10 inches (height) and 8 cm/3 inches (width)

Technical Notes and Tension

Read through the whole pattern first to get the most out of this design.
This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms. If you prefer U.K. terms, see the box above for abbreviation differences.
Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
This pattern uses a 2.50 mm hook. Check that your tension is as close as possible to the tension stated in the pattern and adjust your hook size as required.
This pattern uses invisible decreases unless otherwise stated.
When the pattern says ‘turn’, always turn your work clockwise.
Make sure you are happy with the placement of the eyes before securing with the backing because you will not be able to remove them later. If intended for a child, embroider the eyes instead of using safety eyes and do not add any detachable parts.
When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
Use sewing pins to mark the position of amigurumi parts before you sew them. Count pins before and after to make sure you haven’t accidently left any in your amigurumi. Don’t weave in ends until you are happy with the placement.
When the pattern mentions leaving a long tail, this means at least 30 cm.
For best results, assemble parts in order as directed.
Rounds labelled “Short round” are worked back and forth and will end before the round is complete, leaving stitches deliberately unworked to be worked in later rounds as instructed.

Tension: 2 inches x 2 inches in sc = 12 sts x 12 rows.

U.S./Canada

single crochet (sc)

double crochet (dc)

treble (tr)

double treble (dtr)

slip stitch (sl st)

U.K.

double crochet (dc)

treble (tr)

double treble (dtr)

triple treble (trtr)

slip stitch (ss)

Body

Using the GREY yarn:

Rnd 1: MR 5 sc (5)

Rnd 2: inc in each st around (10)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] x 5 (15)

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] x 5 (20)

Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] x 5 (25)

Rnd 6: [4 sc, inc] x 5 (30)

Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] x 5 (35)

Rnd 8: [6 sc, inc] x 5 (40)

Rnds 9–13: sc evenly around (40)

Change to PINK yarn:

Rnds 14–16: sc evenly around (40)

Rnd 17: [6 sc, dec] x 5 (35)

Rnds 18–20: sc evenly around (35)

Rnd 21: [5 sc, dec] x 5 (30)

Rnds 22–25: sc evenly around (30)

Rnd 26: [3 sc, dec] x 6 (24)

Rnd 27: sc evenly BLO (24)

Change to GREY yarn:

Rnd 28: [4 sc, dec] x 4 (20)

Sl st into next stitch and FO, leaving a long tail for attaching the head the body. Bo’s back is going to be on the side where this sl st is found.

Embroidery: Using the PINK yarn, create a slip knot and attach the yarn to the first leftover front loop from Rnd 27 of the body using a standing sc. Make sure you don’t pull this stitch too tight because this will make it difficult to find later. Sc into each loop, weaving in the yarn-end at the same time. Finish with a sl st into the standing sc. FO, and weave in the remaining yarn-end.

Head

Using the GREY yarn:

Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2: inc in each st around (12)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)

Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)

Rnds 6–10: sc evenly around (30)

Change to WHITE:

Rnd 11: inc in each st (60)

Rnds 12–13: sc evenly around (60)

Rnd 14: [3 sc, dec] x 6, 11 sc, 2 dec, place a different colour marker from the end-of-row marker in the second of these dec sts (this marks the front of the head), 2 dec, 11 sc (50) Note: Keep the new marker in place until the eyes have been embroidered. Make a note of the colour of this marker to avoid confusing it with the end-of-row marker.

Rnds 15–16: sc evenly around (50) Note: Remember to work up to the end-of-row marker, not the one identifying the front of the head.

Rnd 17: sc, [2 sc, dec] x 6, 9 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc (40)

Rnd 18: [6 sc, dec] x 5 (35)

Rnd 19: [5 sc, dec] x 5 (30)

Rnd 20: [4 sc, dec] x 5 (25)

Rnd 21: [3 sc, dec] x 5 (20)

Begin stuffing and continue as you go.

Rnd 22: sc evenly around (20)

Rnd 23: [8 sc, dec] x 2 (18)

Rnd 24: [sc, dec] x 6 (12)

Rnd 25: dec x 6 (6)

FO, leaving a long tail (at least 30 cm). Using a needle, thread the yarn through all 6 front loop stitches in the last round and pull it tight so the opening closes like a drawstring bag. Weave in the yarn-end.

Embroidery (Eyes)

A note for embroidery: When embroidering the eyes, nose and mouth, make sure to leave a long enough starting yarn-end to be able to tie a double knot and weave in the yarn-ends to secure.

The bottom of the eye is between Rnds 10 and 11 (where the grey changes to white) and approx. 5 stitches away from the top central point of the nose. (The marker that you added while crocheting the head identifies the front of Bo’s head.)

Thread a needle with at least 70 cm of BLACK embroidery floss (or yarn) and insert into the head – a few stitches away from where the eye will begin – coming out where the bottom of the eye will start. Now insert the needle directly into the stitch 2 rows above and then back out at the bottom of the eye. Repeat three or four times until the eye is the size you want.

Insert the needle into the top of the eye and out at a downward diagonal one stitch away (towards the side of the head). This creates the look of an eyelid. Insert the needle back into the top of the eye, bringing the needle back out where the bottom of the other eye will be embroidered. Repeat the same process for the second eye, but when you have completed the eyelid, bring the needle out where the starting yarn-end is and tie a double knot close to the stitch. Thread the needle with both strands of yarn-end and insert the needle into the same stitch on the head that the yarn comes out from. Push the needle through to the other side of the head to pull the knot inside the head. Cut the excess yarn-ends so that they disappear into the head.

Thread a needle with at least 40 cm of WHITE floss (or yarn). Insert the needle a few stitches away from the bottom of the eye and bring it back out at the bottom of the eye. Now insert the needle near the top part of the eye and back out at the bottom of the eye. Make sure that when you pull the floss, it sits at the outside part of the eye. Insert the needle into the top of the eye again and bring it out in the middle of the eye as near as possible to the 2 white strands. Insert the needle into the head as close as possible to the outer eye to secure the white of the eye. Now bring the needle out at the bottom of the eye on the opposite side. Work this eye in the same way. As before, to finish and secure the yarn, bring the needle out the same stitch where the starting yarn-end is found and using the two strands of yarn, tie a double knot close to the stitch. Thread the needle with both strands of yarn-end and insert the needle into the same stitch on the head that the yarn comes out from. Push the needle through to the other side of the head to pull the knot inside the head. Cut the excess yarn-ends so that they disappear into the head.

Embroidery (Nose)

Thread a needle with at least 70 cm of PINK floss (or yarn). Insert the needle a few stitches away from where you want the nose to begin and back out where the bottom of the nose will be (between rows 12 and 13).

Insert the needle two rows above (where the grey meets the white) and approx. 3 stitches along this row and back out at the bottom of the nose.

Insert the needle two rows above where the grey meets the white, and approx. 3 stitches along this row, in the opposite direction this time, and back out at the bottom of the nose. Build up the nose by repeatedly working along between Rows 12 and 13 and back out at the bottom of the nose.

Once you’ve finished the nose, bring the needle out directly below the eye and then insert the needle along one stitch towards the outer eye, coming out directly below the opposite eye to repeat this on the other eye. Don’t pull too tight or the pink will disappear. If you do pull too tightly, just use the needle to loosen the pink again.

To finish, bring the needle out the same stitch where the starting yarn-end is found and using the two strands of yarn, tie a double knot close to the stitch. Thread the needle with both strands of yarn-end and insert the needle into the same stitch on the head that the yarn comes out from. Push the needle through to the other side of the head to pull the knot inside the head. Cut the excess yarn-ends so that they disappear into the head.

Embroidery (Mouth)

Thread a needle with at least 30 cm of GREY floss (or yarn). Insert the needle a few stitches away from where you will begin embroidering the mouth and back out in the same stitch as the bottom of the nose. Insert the needle 4 rows directly below and bring the needle back out two stitches along the same row. Now insert the needle back down into the previous stitch and then bring your needle out two stitches along in the opposite direction. Finally, insert the needle back into the previous stitch and out the same stitch where the starting yarn-end is found. Using the two strands of yarn, tie a double knot close to the stitch. Thread the needle with both strands of yarn-end and insert the needle into the same stitch on the head that the yarn comes out from. Push the needle through to the other side of the head to pull the knot inside the head. Cut the excess yarn-ends so that they disappear into the head.

Legs (Make 2)

Using the PINK yarn:

Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2: inc in each st around (12)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)

Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)

Rnds 5–7: sc evenly around (24)

Rnd 8: [2 sc, dec] x 6 (18)

Rnd 9: sc evenly around (18)

Rnd 10: dec x 3, 12 sc (15)

Rnd 11: sc evenly around BLO (15)

Change to GREY yarn:

Rnd 12: [3 sc, dec] x 3 (12)

Begin stuffing and continue as you go.

Rnds 13–27: sc evenly around (12)

Finish stuffing the leg. Making sure that the front of the foot is facing forwards, hold the two edges flat and complete 5 SCs through the front and back stitches to close. This may mean adding or removing some stitches from the last round. FO, leaving a long tail for attaching to the body.

Embroidery: Using the WHITE yarn, create a slip knot and attach the yarn to one of the leftover front loops from Rnd 11 – on the back of the leg –using a standing sc (counts as a st). Make sure you don’t pull this stitch too tight because this will make it difficult to find later. Sc into each of the remaining 14 loops, weaving in the yarn-end at the same time. Finish with a sl st into the first standing sc. FO, and weave in the remaining yarn-end (15 sc, 1 sl st).

Arms (Make 2)

Using the WHITE yarn:

Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2: inc in each st around (12)

Rnd 3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)

Rnds 4–6: sc evenly around (18)

Rnd 7: [sc, dec] x 6 (12)

Rnd 8: sc evenly around (12)

Change to GREY yarn:

Rnd 9: [4 sc, dec] x 2 (10)

Rnd 10: sc evenly around (10)

Begin stuffing. The hands are stuffed firmly but the arm is very lightly stuffed, with no stuffing at all in the upper arm so that it sits flat against the body (last 4 rows).

Rnds 11–19: sc evenly around (10)

Change to PINK yarn:

Rnd 20: sc evenly around BLO (10)

Rnds 21–22: sc evenly around (10)

Finish stuffing lightly. Remember not to stuff the upper part of the arm. Hold the two edges flat and complete 4 SCs through the front and back stitches to close (like you did with the top of the legs). FO, leaving a long tail for attaching to the body.

Embroidery: Using the PINK yarn, create a slip knot and attach the yarn to one of the leftover front loops from Rnd 20 of the arm using a standing sc (counts as a st). Make sure you don’t pull this stitch too tight because this will make it difficult to find later. Sc into each of the remaining 9 loops, weaving in the yarn-end at the same time. Finish with a sl st into the first standing sc. FO, and weave in the remaining yarn-end (10 sc, 1 sl st).

Ears (Make 2)

Using the WHITE yarn:

Rnd 1: MR 8 sc (8)

Rnd 2: inc in each st around (16)

Rnd 3: sc evenly around (16)

Rnd 4: [3 sc, inc] x 4 (20)

Rnds 5–7: sc evenly around (20)

Rnd 8: [3 sc, dec] x 4 (16)

Rnds 9–10: sc evenly around (16)

Rnd 11: [2 sc, dec] x 4 (12)

Rnds 12–16: sc evenly around (12)

Do not stuff. Hold the two edges flat and complete 5 SCs through the front and back stitches to close. FO, leaving a long tail for attaching to the head.

Tail

Using the WHITE yarn:

Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2: inc in each st around (12)

Rnd 3: sc evenly around (12)

Rnd 4: [4 sc, dec] x 2 (10)

FO, leaving a long tail for attaching to the dungarees. Weave in the starting yarn-end. Do not stuff the tail.

Hat

Using the BLUE yarn:

Rnd 1: MR 8 sc (8)

Rnd 2: hdc inc in each st around (16)

Rnd 3: [dc, dc inc] x 8 (24)

Rnd 4: [2 dc, dc inc] x 8 (32)

Rnd 5: [3 dc, dc inc] x 8 (40)

Rnd 6: [4 dc, dc inc] x 8 (48)

Rnd 7: sc evenly around (48)

Sl st and then FO, leaving a long tail for attaching to the head.

Optional – Pink Rose in centre of hat:

Using the PINK yarn:

Create a slip knot and chain 14

Beginning in 2nd chain from the hook, 2 sc into each of the next 4 chains, 3 sc in each of the remaining 9 chains. FO, leaving a long tail. Weave in the starting yarn. Curl the chain and using the long tail-end, sew together. Make sure to sew through all layers for a firm hold. When finished sewing, use the long yarn-end to securely attach

to the centre of the hat.

Dungaree Trouser Pockets (Make 2)

Using the BLUE yarn:

Create a slip knot and chain 6

Row 1: Beg in 2nd chain from hook, 5 sc, turn (5)

Row 2: Ch 1, 5 sc, turn (5)

Row 3: Ch 1, 5 sc, turn (5)

Row 4: Ch 1, 4 sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in last st to create a corner (6 sc, 1 ch)

Working around the pocket:

2 sc down the side of the pocket, (sc, ch1, sc) into the corner,

3 sc along the bottom edge of the pocket, (sc, ch1, sc) in the corner.

Weaving in starting yarn-end as you go, 3 sc along the final side of the pocket, ch 1 and sl st into the first sc of Row 4.

FO, leaving a long tail for attaching to the dungarees.

Embroidery: Using approx. 40 cm of the PINK yarn and a tapestry needle, backstitch all around the edge of the pocket as shown. Secure the yarn end, making sure you weave in on the inside of the pocket. Put aside.

Dungaree Bib Pocket (Make 1)

Create a slip knot and chain 9.

Row 1: Beg in 2nd chain from hook, 8 sc, turn (8)

Row 2: Ch 1, 8 sc, turn (8)

Row 3: Ch 1, 8 sc, turn (8)

Row 4: Ch 1, 7 sc, (sc, ch 1, sc) in last st to create a corner, 2 sc down the side of the pocket, (sc, ch1, sc) into the corner, 6 sc along the bottom edge of the pocket, (sc, ch1, sc) in the corner. Weaving in starting yarn-end as you go, 3 sc along the final side of the pocket, ch 1 and sl st into first sc of the Row 4. FO, leaving a long tail for attaching to the dungarees.

Embroidery: Using approx. 50 cm of the PINK yarn and a tapestry needle, backstitch all around the edge of the pocket. Secure the yarn-end, making sure you weave in on the inside of the pocket.

Dungarees

Using the BLUE yarn:

Base and First Leg

Rnd 1: Chain 50 and sl st into the first chain, making sure that the chain does not twist. Place a st marker in the sl st because this is now your last st of each rnd (50)

Rnds 2–6: sc evenly around (50)

Rnd 7: [4 sc, inc] x 10 (60)

Rnds 8–14: sc evenly around (60)

Rnd 15: Skip 30, 30 sc. Leave unworked sts for later use (30)

Rnd 16: sc evenly around (30)

FO and weave in yarn-end.

Second Leg

Rnd 15: Create a sl st and crochet a standing sc in the 1st unworked st from Rnd 14 (counts as a st). Do not weave in the starting yarn-end. Crochet a further 29 sc. Place a st marker in the last st (30)

Rnd 16: sc evenly around (30)

FO and weave in yarn-end. Use the starting yarn-end from the standing sc to sew closed the small hole left between the trouser legs.

Dungaree Bib

Using the BLUE yarn:

Rnd 1: With the legs now facing the correct way up, create a sl st and crochet a standing sc (counts as a st) in the foundation chain of the waistband of the dungarees, making sure that you begin at the centre. Sc in each of the next 49 chains as well (50)

Rnd 2: sc evenly around, weaving in the starting yarn-end from the standing sc and the foundation chain from the waistband (50)

Front Bib

Rnd 3: 32 sc, turn (32) Make sure that the bib is in the centre of the dungarees – if necessary, adding or removing SCs. You need to have 6 stitches on either side of the dungaree crotch.

Rnd 4: (WS)(SR): do not chain, 12 sc, turn (12) Check that your bib is central before continuing.

Rnd 5: (RS)(SR): do not chain, 12 sc, turn (12)

Rnd 6: (WS)(SR): do not chain, 12 sc, turn (12)

Rnd 7: (RS)(SR): do not chain, 11 sc, (sc, ch1, sc) in next st (this acts as a corner stitch), do not turn. 3 sc down the side of the bib.

Rnd 8: Beg in the first unworked st from Rnd 3, 22 sc, turn (22)

Back Bib

Rnd 9: (WS)(SR): do not chain, 9 sc, turn (9)

Rnd 10: (RS)(SR): do not chain, 9 sc, turn (9)

Rnd 11: (WS)(SR): do not chain, 9 sc, turn (9)

Rnd 12: (RS)(SR): do not chain, 8 sc, (sc, ch1, sc) in next st (this acts as a corner stitch), do not turn. 3 sc down the side of the bib.

Rnd 13: Beg in the first unworked st from Rnd 3, 16 sc, 2 sc up the side of the front bib, (sc, ch1, sl st) in the next st (top right corner of front bib), 29 sl st to reach the back bib, 3 sc up the side of the bib, ready for working the straps.

Dungaree Straps: ch 13 and sl st into the top corner st of the front bib on the diagonal.

Working on the WS, sl st down the side of the bib and along the edge of the dungarees until you reach the top left corner of the back of the bib. Ch 13, place a marker in the last chain and do not break the yarn because the last step of assembly will be attaching the chain to the front of the bib (once Bo is in her dungarees!).

Assembly

You should now have all the pieces ready for assembling Bo!

Attach the pockets to the dungarees. When sewing the pockets to the dungarees, be careful not to sew through to the opposite side, as this will close the dungarees legs. To give the pockets a clean edge, sew through only the back loop on the pocket. Remember only to sew along the 3 edges, leaving the top of the pocket open.
Attach the tail to the back of the dungarees, beginning approx. 6 rows up from the bottom of the trouser legs and in the centre. Make sure not to sew the trousers together!
Stuff the body and attach the head to Rnd 28 (grey) of the body using the long yarn-end from the body. Make sure to add stuffing to the neck area as you work so that the head is well supported.
Attach the ears with the highest point of the ear between Rnds 7 and 8, approx. 2 sts away from the eyelid, going down at a slight diagonal to between Rnds 11 and 12.
Attach the legs between Rnds 8 and 9 of the body, making sure that the front of the foot is pointing forwards.
Attach the arms between Rnds 25 and 26 of the body.
Attach the hat to the head, covering the top of the ears. Use pins to keep it in place while you sew. Work through the BLO on the hat to give a neater edge. Do not sew the hat onto the ears, instead, work your yarn to the other side of the ear by threading your needle and yarn through each BLO without inserting the needle into the ear. When you reach the other side of the ear, insert your needle into the head and continue sewing around as previously.
Put Bo’s legs into the dungarees, holding the strap to the side and then pull the arm under the strap. Insert your hook into the dungaree chain that has the st marker in it and bring the chain over Bo’s right shoulder, attaching the strap with a slip stitch in the front bib corner. FO, and weave in yarn-end.
Take approx. 50 cm of BLUE yarn and thread a darning needle. Tie a double knot approx. 10 cm from the end of the yarn. Insert the needle into the body and back out at the right corner of the rear bib, making sure that the knot is pulled inside the body. Insert the needle back into the dungarees one stitch along, making sure to go into the body and bring the needle back out a few stitches away (still in the bib area). Secure the rear bib to the body by repeatedly inserting the needle through the bib – making sure to go into the body as well – and back out elsewhere on the bib. When you are happy that the bib is attached securely to the body, bring the needle out at the same stitch that you started from and tie a double knot with the tail-end and the starting yarn-end. Insert the needle back into the same stitch and out at the opposite side of the body so that the knot disappears. This will hide your knot inside the body. Cut the yarn-ends as close to the body as possible so that they disappear inside the body.

Congratulations! You have finished Bo Bunny! I would love to see your finished bunnies, so please email me your pictures and let me know if you are willing to have your bunny included in my website gallery.

heather@wildforcrochet.com